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' 2 sheets-sheet 1.

(No Model.)

JL P. LAVIGNE. Y y COMB1NBD RUFFLBR ANDSGALLOPEB, POR SEWING mrmmm's.-No. 343,463.

Patented June 8, 1886.

f C111 :affito/24 N. PETERS. PtwxLiiMlnnMfwnhingmn. 0.6.

(No Model.) Y 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

J. P. LAvIC-NE.

COMBINED RUPFLER AND SGALLOPER FOR .SEWING MACHINES.-

No. 343,463. Patented June 8, 1886.

I Urn'rnfn!A STATES* PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH P. LAVIGNE, OF NEViT -HAVEN, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR 'IO'JANEHALLIWELL, OF SAME PLACE. i

COMBINED RUFFLER AND SCALLOPER FOR SEWINGMACHINES SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 343,463, dated June 8, 1886.

Application ilcd September 14, 1885. `Serial No. 177,010. (No model.)

To all, whom it may concern.-

Beit known that I, JOSEPH P. LAvrGfNE, of New Haven, in the county ofNew Haven and State of Connecticut, have invented a new Improvement in aCombined Rufler'and Scalloper for Sewing-Machines; and I do herebydeclarethe following, when taken in connection with accompanyingdrawings and the letters of reference marked thereon, to be a full,clear, and exact description of the same, and which said drawingsconstitute part of this specification, and represent, in-

Figure 1, a side view of the attachment, looking from the left; Fig. 2,aside view, looking from the right; Fig. 3, an under side view; Fig. 4,a side view of the actuating-lever, slide, and their connections,showinga section of the base and lever, with the ratchet in connectiontherewith; Fig. 5, a detached sectional view, looking down upon the pawland ratchet; Figs. 6 and 7, side and front views showing modification,Figs. 3, 6, and 7 being substantially full size, the remaining figuresconsiderably enlarged for convenience of illustration. This inventionrelates to an improvement in that class of sewing machine attachmentswhich are designed to shirr a strip of fabric as it is stitched, and sothat the line of stitches will'secure the shirrs, commonly calledrufiiing attachments, and particularly to that class in which the stripis guided to the shirring apparatus in such a manner that the strip willbe presented to the needle at graduallyincreasing distances from theedge through a certain number of shirrs, then gradually diminishing indistance through a like number of shirrs, and so that the edge of theruffle will present a scallop shape, such devices being commonly calledscalloping devices,77 the object of the invention being to combine ascalloper and ruftler in a single attachment,

so that the scalloper may be used or not, as occasion requires-that is,so that the same attachment may beemployedl in the making of a ruffleywith a straight edge or with a scalloped edge; and the inventionconsists 'in the construction hereinafter described, and moreparticularly recited inthe claims. The attach- :ment is best made so asto be secured to the presser-foot bar, and I so illustrate it. l

A represents the base or body of the attachment, which is fixed to ormade a part of a socket, B, adapted to be secured to the presserfootbar. upward, to which the usual vibrating arm, D, is hung uponI a pivot,a, the free end of the arm bifurcated to be attached to the needlearm,and so that the up-and-down movement of the needle-arm will impart avibratory movement to the lever in the usual manner.

E is the presser-foot, which is iixed to the base, andl beneathwhich'the work passes also in the usual manner. In this illustration thevibrating arm is shown as hung in rear ofthe presser-foot.

F is a.slide arranged in suitable guides in the base, and with whichconnection is made from the vibrating arm D in the usual manner; but asI have shown the construction a lever, G, is hung by one end upon thesame pivot, a, as the lever D, the other end hung to the slide F at I).From the hub of the lever D an arm, H, extends downward, forming with Dwhat may be called a bell-crank lever. The arm H extends down-betweenthe supporting-arm C and the lever G, as seen in Fig. 2, and on thelever G is a stop, d, against which the arm H of the actuating-leverwill strike as the lever rises, and as indicated in broken lines, Fig.2, and on the lever G, upon the opposite side of the arm H to the stopd, is a second stop, e, against which the arm H will strike in thedescent of the actuating-1ever, and as also seen in Fig. 2, and so thatthe lever in operation, the arm H working between the two stops d e,imparts reciprocating movement to the slide F. The stop e is madeadjustable in a slot, f, in the lever-G, the said slot being nearlyvertical, and so that the stop may be moved nearer t9 or farther fromthe pivot a, on which the levers work. f

As represented in Fig. 2, the stop stands at its extreme down position,and so that it will receive its greatest extent of lmovement in thedescent of the actuating-lever. If thestop be raised, say, to the upposition, (seen in broken lines, Fig. 2,) it will be observed that thedescent of the lever must be to a greater extent before the arm-H canreach the stop; hence the stop d, being a iixed stop, limits the advancemovement of the slide F. The retreating movement will vary according tothe po- From the basean arm, C, extends IOO sition of the stop c in theslot, the retreat being greater as the stop is moved downward in itsslot, or less as it is moved upward. To thus adjust the stop it is fixedin a lever, I, hung upon a pivot, h, at one side ofthe slot, the 1everextending across to the opposite side in the form of a handle, as seenin Fig. l. The slot should be of segment shape, drawn from the pivot h,and so that by means of the handle the stop may be raised or loweredaocordingly, and an index may be provided, as

seen in Fig. 1, to show the extent of move' ment. A set-nut, J, is alsoprovided to set the stop at any position to which it may be` to theslide F by the actuating-lever.

M is the usual separator. Upon the under side of the base, and upon apivot, m, forward of the presser-foot, a lever, N, is hung. (See Fig.3.) This lever extends rearward, it being turned to one side so as topass the other mechanism of the ruilier, and at its .rear end is turnedinward to form au arm, P, in which is a slot, n, at right angles to thepath oi' the needle. The length ot' this slot is substantially the widthofthe strip to be rufiied. In the under side of the base, near thepivotm, a recess, i', is formed in a plane parallel 'with the lever N, andthe lever N is constructed to substantially cover this recess, asindicated in Fig. 4. In the recess a toothed ratchet-wheel, s, isarranged free to turn independent of the base or the lever N. From theratchet s is a downwardly-projecting stud, t, the said stud beingeccentric to the disk, and this stud extends through a longitudinalslot, u, iu the lever N, as seen in Figs. 3 and 4, and so that if thewheel s be revolved the stud t will work as a crank through the slot uin the lever, and will impart to the lever a vibratory movement, asindicated in Fig. 3, first to one extreme and then to the other, suchmovement being step by step, according to the teeth of the ratchet.

From the slide F a pawl, R, extends forward, and so as to receive thesame reciprocating movement as the slide F, and so that if in theforward or advance movement of the slide the pawl engages the teeth ofthe ratchet, as indicated iu broken lines, Fig. 5, it will impart to thewheel s a movement, say, of one tooth. If, on the contrary, the pawl Rbe thrown out of the path of the wheel s,

. then the reciprocating movement of the slide F will have no ei'ectupon the wheel s or the lever N. That the pawl may be so thrown into orout of engagement with the wheel s, it

is made elastic, and through the pawl into the lever is a screw, S, (seeFig. 5,) which by withdrawing permits the pawl to spring out into activeposition; or, if the screw be turned inward, it will force the pawl outof such active position, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 5.

Vhen the pawl R is in its out or active position,each advance movementof the slide F, carrying the crimping blade, will impart a partialrotation to the wheel s, which rotative movement will be communicated tothe lever N as one step in its vibration. The strip to be ruffled passesthrough the slot u in the arm P of the leverN, and such movement of thelever N will move the strip at right angles to the path of the needle,and so continuing the ratchet will be turned,tooth by tooth, and imparta step-by-step movement to the arm P across the path of the needle, andcarry the strip accordingly, first through a series of steps to oneside, and then returned by a like series of steps. This movement of thelever or strip-carrying device step by step from side to side is acommon and well-known device, and, broadly considered, is notmyinventiou. If at any time this transverse movement of the strip beundesirable-as, forillustration, supposing that it be desired to makearufflehavingrstaseries of scallops and then a space withoutscallopsafter the series of scallops have been formed the screw R willbe turned inward to throw the pawl away from engagement with theratchet,as seenin broken lines, Fig. 5. Then the work will continuewithout the operation ofthe scalloping device; Then so soon as thescalloping device is required, the screw is withdrawn to permit the pawlto move into its engaging position, so at any time when the scalloper isnot required" its use may be dispensed with by throwing thepawlout ofengagement, or, when required, may be used by throwing the pawl intoengagement.

I have illustrated this construction as having the actuating-arm hung inrear of the needlebar. In some ruiiing devices the actuating-arm is hungforward of the sealloper, as seenin Fig. 6. In this case an intermediatelever. T, is hung between the actuating-arm D and the slide F,Whichcarries the crimpingblade, (see Figs. 6 and 7,) this intermediate leverbeing necessary, that the downward movement of the actuating-lever mayimpart an advance movement to the crimpingbladc a construction of devicetoo well known to require particular description. In this case, toactuate the ratchet-wheel, I arrange a pawl,R, on the vertical lever,and apply the' screw S in like manner as before described, so that thepawl may be thrown into its active engagement, as seen in Fig. 7, orthrown out of such engagement, as seen in broken lines in that ligure.Substantially the same arrangement ofthe ratchet and lever N exists inboth cases. This modilcation of the pawl with relation to the ratchetVwill be sufficient toenable those skilled in the art to whi'chthisinvention pertains to apply the`pawl,'ratchet, and scallopinglevers tothe various constructions of rufflers, lthe essential feature of myinvention being the scalloping-lever hung beneath the base, and so as toswing ina horizontal plane across the path of the need1e,with a ratchetcarrying an eccentric stud, and adapted to impart to said lever avibratory movement, and the pawl to which a reciprocating movement isimparted by the actuatinglever,the said pawl being adapted t-o be throwninto or out of engagement withsaid ratchet.

I do not broadly claim an adjustable stop between the actuatinglever andthe slide which carries the crmping-blade,whereby the throw of the blademay be adjusted, as such, I am aware,'is not new.

I claim- 1. In a rui-fling attachment for sewing-machines, thecombination of thev slide F, the crimping-blade L, hung thereto,thebell-crank actuating-lever D H, the lever G, hung by one end to thesame pivot as the actuating-lever and by the other to the said slide, astopon said `lever G, against which the arm H will` strike in the ascentof the actuating-lever, the said lever G constructed with a verticalslot, f, on the side of said arm Hopposite said stop,

and a stop, e, adjustable in said slot, substan-` tially as described.

2. In a ruflling attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of theslide F, the crimping-blade L, hung thereto, the bell-crankactuating-lever D H, thelever G, hung by one end to the same pivot asthe actuating-lever and by the other tothe said slide, a stop on saidlever G, against which the arm H`wi1l strike in the ascent of theactuating-lever, the said lever G constructed with a vertical slot,

f, on the side of said arm Hopposite said stop,

and a lever, I, hung to said lever G uponone side of said slot, the saidlever I carrying a stop, e, extending through said slot, and againstwhich the said arm H will 'strike as the actuatinglever descends,substantially as described.

3. In a rufling attachment substantially such as described, thecombination therewith ofthe lever N,hung to the base and constructedwith an arm, l?, having Va slot, n, therein, the said lever adapted' toswing in a horizontal plane across the path of the needle, a toothedratchet,

s, carrying an eccentric, u, adapted to Work in a corresponding slot ins'aid lever, and whereby under'the rotation of said ratchet vibratorymovement is imparted to said lever N ,and a pawl hung upon the movablepart of the ruftling attachment and adapted to reciprocate in a planeparallel with the plane of said ratchet, the said pawl made adjustable,whereby it may be thrown into or out of engagement with said ratchet, asoccasion may require, substantially as described.

4, In a rufling attachment for sewing-machines, the combinationtherewith of a lever, N, hung to the base and so as to vibrate in ahorizontal plane, said lever constructed with an arm, P, having a slot,u, therein to carry the strip to be ruiiled, the base of the rufflerconstructed with a'recess, r, a toothed ratchet,

s, in said recess, carrying an eccentric adapted to work through acorresponding slot in said lever N,and whereby the rotation of theratchet will impart horizontal vibratory movement to said lever, andapawl hung to a movable part of the ruftier and so as to receive areciprocating movement in the plane of the ratchet, the said pawl madeadjustable, whereby'it may be thrown into or out of engagement with theteeth of the ratchet, as required, substantially as described.

" 5. In a ruffling attachment for sewing-machines, the combination ofthe slide F, carrying the crimping-blade,and a lever constructed toengage the needle-arm and in connection with said slide, whereby thereciprocating movement of the needle-arm will impart correspondingreciprocating movement to said slide, a lever, N, hung to the base and,arranged to swing in ahorizontal plane, a toothed ratchet carrying aneccentric working in a slot in said lever, and a pawl, R, hung to saidslide JOSEPH P. LAVIGNE.

Witnesses:

LUcIUs B. HINMAN, WILLMM ALBEN.

Aand so as to partake of its reciprocating move-`

